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A CONTEMPORARY AND UNUSUAL PLACE FOR STYLISH FLORENTINE DINING

Standing on the Cestello square facing the south bank of the Arno, the Cestello describes itself as a ‘Ristoclub’. A new word to me with my woefully-scant Italian, but Google will drum up a few of these for you, (if not that many). This name might indeed sound pretentious to some (it did to me initially), but the concept does seem apt. The ‘risto’ prefix goes without saying and the ‘club’ aspect becomes abundantly clear from the subtle décor, service quality and a few other aspects (read on).

The website states: "The Cestello Ristoclub is ready to satisfy and spoil guests. Every dish, prepared with excellent ingredients and utmost care towards Mediterranean gastronomy, is the outcome of the highest competences and skills, but its unique character offers a new sensation each time. Every taste almost becomes a special event. Small and large morsels are a continuous surprise, flavours and scents come together in an irresistible symphony."

Are we getting pretentious again? Well maybe, but I don’t think that they can be accused of exercising economy with the truth after our experience there.

You wander in, where you are welcomed by the bar area and staff. It is easy to describe friendly staff as ‘charming’ and I often do that. Here, you are give a sort of subdued, discreet yet friendly and sincere welcome. It is pleasingly different and is an aspect that seems to be reflected throughout the place.

Behind the bar, the tables run along the sides and centre with subdued lighting



and timeless stone/brick walls. and there is a rather more brightly-lit area at the back, which is either for the benefit of the camera-toting visitor or those who like to ogle their food in appropriately well-lit technicolour. Its stylish ambience certainly comes over as being more ‘clubby’ than ‘restaurantish’.




(The photos on the website do better justice than mine do.)

The attentive waiter – embodying all of the above-mentioned attributes – discreetly asked whether he had had the pleasure of attending to us before (which had in fact been the case in March 2009). Subtleties like that inevitably fall on receptive ears after just one previous visit and suggest that either the staff are indeed highly professional, or that your behaviour on the previous occasion left something to be desired.

Stage one was of course an aperitivo while studying the menu.

Then it gets even more interesting.

To learn more about what is on offer, you are accompanied to their in-house



‘fish-market’, where they are delighted to explain the delights of the sumptuous and screamingly fresh spread on offer,
which they will cook according to their recommendations or indeed even to you favourite recipe.

We decided to share a sea-food platter as a starter and here I discovered a further missing aspect of my local knowledge, which was namely the extent to which raw fish was eaten in Italy. Apart from oysters and various colourful shellfish, the platter included both raw tuna, salmon and if memory serves – another type of raw fish. Breaking with Mediterranean tradition, the seasoning on offer hailed from Japan and included the usual ingredients of ‘Wasabi’ green horse-radish, soy sauce and vinegar.

I had let myself be tempted into a fish which I was told was very popular in the south and I was sure I had ever eaten before. Upon recommendation, I had it with a mild delicate sauce which was ideal to let its alarmingly fresh taste come through. Sublime. Having made a special note of this fish for future reference, I was furious to later discover that I had lost that note.

La contessa comforted herself with a (cooked) lobster and sadly had to enlist my assistance in fully demolishing it; a request which I felt duty-bound to comply with for reasons of politeness towards her and the staff of this establishment.




The dessert we chose was a mixture of fresh fruit and gelato which touched the spot in a big way.

Naturally, the logical conclusion was limoncello and coffee.

We did “put the boat out" in a big way (if you will excuse the pun) and the financial damage was appropriate, but I should add that on the previous occasion we had consumed less and ended up paying not too much above € 100. Some guides list prices per head as being between € 30 – 35.

I would strongly recommend this experience to any visitor to the Renaissance city. In terms of ambience and cuisine, it is a far cry from the usual hearty Tuscan restaurant and fare, delectable and delightful though the latter may well be.

A further point of interest is the fact that alongside and above the restaurant stands the 3-star Hotel Relais il Cestello http://www.hotelrelaisilcestello.com/ hotel. As far as I am aware, there is no connection between the two establishments, but the rates of the hotel sound particularly attractive, especially given its sublime position on the banks of the Arno.

Occupying one half of the Piazza Ognissanti and looking across at the smaller facade of the Grand Hotel,



the Westin Excelsior is also on the corner of Lungarno Amerigo Vespucci, offering lovely views of the Arno if you have a riverside room.



That was December 23, by the way!

We stayed there thanks to arrangements made by kind friends of la contessa.
The rooms are certainly luxurious – but the decor seems a little tired. The entrance passage and bathrooms feature beautiful marble,




with the latter containing what I suppose our friends in the U.S. would describe as a ‘bathroom within a bathroom’ and I must say that the (sic) “signature Heavenly Bed®”



was sublime. These are set at the kind of height where you do not have to ease downwards but can simply sit onto or fall into backwards, depending upon preference or condition.

The public rooms of this erstwhile palazzo are very elegant but a tad dingily lit for my taste: unless somebody thinks that such a subdued mood is appropriate?

Apart from the breakfast (admirable) we did not try the restaurants. Partly for fiscal reasons and partly because there are so many places to explore in Flo. Suffice it to say that they, too, look elegant. A new rooftop restaurant should have been opened by the time we were there, but as can be the case in Italy, the completed project is still awaiting signoff by the oh-so-diligent building inspectors. When finished, it will certainly be something special and offer panoramic views of Florence which I imagine will be unique.

The service in general is all that one would expect and the concierge’s desk is an unending vibrant scenario of charming guys making things happen instantly.

The prices are cheaper than London but still not for the faint-hearted. See the website for details, where packages are also promoted from €325 (whether or not that includes breakfast I do not know, but it would be advisable to check).

It claims to be a five-star hotel, but I would not really put it in the same league as the Grand. Four stars for being very conveniently situated, luxurious and pleasant, if a little dingy and tired.

BASILICA DI SANTA MARIA NOVELLA

On the original site of the Dominican 'Santa Maria delle Vigne', the building of this magnificent church started in the middle of the 13th century, lasting for some hundred years.

It is situated opposite the eponymous ;-) train station serving central Florence and stands facing one of the largest piazzas in town.



One in fact that Longfellow described as "the mecca for foreigners".

Once the builders had finished, the 'decorators' moved in and in the main chapel alone, they included names such as:

Baccio D'Agnolo
Bronzino
Giotto di Bondone
Tino di Camaino
Nardo di Cione
Duccio
Lorenzo Ghiberti
Domenico Ghirlandaio
Filippino Lippi
Benedetto da Maiano
Tommaso Masaccio
Nino Pisano
Paolo Uccello
Giorgio Vasari and
Michelangelo.

What disappoints me is the fact that photography is not allowed, although that is a reasonable request, given the fact that these magnificent frescoes have survived so long. Unlike paintings, frescoes are a subtle and sensible idea. Apart from anything else, they cannot be stolen (well at least not physically).

Together with the stained glass windows and other masterpieces, they are breathtakingly beautiful.

Do visit and when there, also check out the "Spanish Gallery" in the chapter house. It was closed when we visited (another excuse to visit Florence yet again) and I have it on very good authority that the Spanish Chapel is really worth seeing.

See also Wikipedia: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Basilica_of_Santa_Maria_Novella

IN FOOD WE TRUST

Towards the eastern end of central Florence - up Santa Croce way - you will find this unique and seethingly popular restaurant oozing with atmosphere.

How the hell we got in having booked at very short notice is a mystery, because apart from our table (and there are plenty) all the others were full.

The very friendly and agile staff seem to be psychic. Just think of something and they appear!

On arrival, you are given a warm welcome and a glass of prosecco on the house, prior to diving into a fun and interesting menu.

We both ordered raw octopus (carpaccio di pulpo). My wife ordered a veal cutlet with a rather splendid sauce (I have never seen a dish in Italy so liberally sprinkled with truffle shavings) and I ordered a rabbit dish (the Italian name of which escapes me) but which also had an amazingly subtle blend of flavours in the sauce.

The Chianti Classico that we ordered was decanted with the true style and panache of a master sommelier and we slowly acquainted ourselves with this wondrous brew while waiting for our starters. Despite the fact that both of these dishes were – by definition – cold dishes, we were amazed when the waiter appeared ‘outta left field’ with this plate

uttering: “Please accept this with our compliments while you wait for your starter.”

No further comment required…

Our dinner was outstanding and we rounded it off with the ‘sorbetto di limone alla Moscovita’.

The damage amounted to the princely sum of € 108, which was worth every cent.

To get the feel of the place, check out the website: http://www.ristorantelagiostra.com/inglese/frameset.html

This a place in Florence that should definitely be on your agenda. Great fun, an amazing atmosphere, succulent food, top-rate attentive service and good value. Have I forgotten anything? Oh – I think the grappa was maybe on the house as well, but don’t quote me on that…

In 1953, Enrico Mariotti in Florence was planning his “Boston Bar” when his friend Cipriani of Venetian Harry’s Bar fame persuaded him to also use the name that he had coined. It is here that links between the Florence establishment and others of the same name begin and end.

Situated on the Lungarno Amerigo Vespucci on the North bank of the River Arno just around the corner from the Grand Hotel, Harry’s Bar is what I would call a mandatory destination in Florence.

It doubles as a sophisticated international ‘American bar’ and renowned Florentine restaurant, and although you can order a burger there, the really outstanding feature is the Tuscan cuisine.

You can either cruise by for an early or late drink or – as you most certainly should – dine there. During the warmer months there is seating outside on the sidewalk, where you can sup something cool and watch Florence and the Arno twinkle and shimmer as only they can do.

A key feature of Harry’s is the presence of barman Leo Valdini; a true gentleman

of the old school

and a veritable master of his craft. Leo will be delighted to recommend what you should drink, be it e.g. one of his Bellinis or be it in the form of providing a charming guide through his recommendations of local wines. As you enter the mood and progress through the sublime bouquets and tastes, he will ply you with delightful and supremely tasty tidbits, grinningly reassuring you: “It’s not for you, it’s for the wine!”

For example, one evening in 2010 we gently ‘savoured a few’ during a ‘Leo-guided’ wine tasting and decided to stay on for a light dinner. I have to confess that despite my love of Italy and Italian cuisine, I am not in fact a great aficionado of all types of pasta. However, Leo suggested that it would be bordering on the irresponsible to ignore a certain ravioli dish. I tried it and and not only did it melt in the mouth, but I waxed lyrical enough about it to make la contessa yawn. I can still taste that subtle sauce today.

Despite the formidable list of notables who have favoured the establishment (see website), Harry’s is not in fact overpriced, as allegedly the London and Venetian establishments of the same name are. Indeed, notwithstanding the amount of wine tasted that evening, the bill for two including dinner was only nominally to the north of € 100. I find it hard to recall enjoying real style, top quality and a delightful atmosphere like that at a similar price anywhere else - and I mean anywhere.

In 2010, we booked for Christmas Eve and spent just a little more (I shall not go into greater detail for fear of being perceived as more a glutton than a gourmet :-). Suffice it to say that Leo was a dab hand



at igniting the crepes that we chose as a dessert.

Planning to visit Florence over Christmas, I noted prolific Hamburg Qyper PJebsen’s review in German that had been posted to Twitter. I have little to add to it, so by way of thanks to PJ, here’s a shot at a translation:

“If I have anything like a 'local' that I use during my annual visits to the Florence Indian Film Festival, then it is the wine shop by the Mercato Centrale owned by Gino and Silvano Zanobini. In the entrance area, there is a stand-up bar where the Zanobini brothers serve their tasty wines at fair prices (from € 1.50/glass).

In Florence, the stand-up bar is apparently a genre which is dying out and giving way to the more expensive wine bars. At midday, a colourful cross section of the Florentine population meets there for a glass and a chat that can often develop into fierce political discussion: something that is acknowledged by the laid-back Zanobinis with an amused grin.”

Business on Christmas Eve was understandably booming, as was the chit-chat. It was amusing to note someone who seemed to be a regular suggesting an appropriate seasonal discount for a purchase; an exchange which took place with charming reciprocal and neo-operatic joviality.

I've used other local printers in the past, but these guys are far and away the best.

They don't just do printing but offer a wide range of services including creative consultancy, mailing management and various other stuff that the general public and local businesses need (check out the website).

I occasionally need to have large sheet printing done (A3) for proofreading purposes and often they can oblige in about 15 minutes.

I've also had business cards done there (which they successfully cleaned up from a rather grotty layout in Word). Other instances have been Christmas cards, which I (attempt) to design in Powerpoint. Here they can clean the file up in a jiffy, make sure everything is correctly centred etc. and come out with a finished product that looks like a purchased card, only much better!

Really nice, friendly and helpful people and I think their prices are pretty reasonable.

On a couple of occasions I've noticed business people come into collect their stuff and thought it significant how delighted they always seemed to be.

First stop for printing and auxiliary services in Maidenhead.

THE 'OUTLET HOTEL'

The cosy little Swabian market town of Metzingen, some 20 clicks to the south of Stuttgart, may be quite well-known in the U.K. (I'm not sure) and is certainly worth a visit.

Apart from the usual scenic and culinary charms that such small towns in Southern Germany boast, it became well-known in and beyond Germany quite a few years back when local company Hugo Boss first opened their factory outlet there. Since then, outlet stores have bloomed for just about any designer brand you care to think of. Indeed, as far as I know it was one of the very first outlet cities in Europe (along the lines of Bicester Village in the U.K.). In the meantime, it literally attracts visitors from all over the world, including Russia, China and other countries.

I have stayed at the Hotel Schwanen several times, both with my wife and once alone on business. This very friendly family-run hotel in the town centre by the church and minutes from the shopping centre offers very pleasant rooms, excellent bars, a fine and a reasonably-priced restaurant with quality local specialities and even a gift shop. I know from professional experience that the word 'sumptuous breakfast buffet' is somewhat overused by hotels in the German-language diaspora, but the Schwanen is certainly deserving of that epithet, with its diverse and stylish facilities. In fact, as you pass through to the breakfast room you will see photos of the serried ranks of the great and good who have stayed there (but remember that it is still very reasonably-priced). In fact, during my last visit, I had stayed the previous few nights at the Four Points Sheraton in Duesseldorf which cannot hold a candle to the Schwanen!

Definitely the place to hang your hat when passing through!

Early booking in the high season is probably not a bad idea to avoid missing out on the best hotel in Metzingen (as far as I know, 'high season' there runs from January to December).

My photos are not representative of the luxurious double rooms, but I was very impressed with the imaginatively-designed and practical open-plan single room I had last time round: a sort of studio apartment. To see more, best check the pix on their website which you can read in an interesting variety of languages!

http://www.schwanen-metzingen.de/de/00_home.php

Related links:http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Metzingen
www.outletcity-metzingen.com/en/welcome

Den zwei Reportagen von 6 Kraska6 und Tulpenteufelsche habe ich kaum was hinzufügen, da ich am Tag 'Addabei' war. Ohne der unwiderstehlichen Charme der Dame und die Faszination an einer Rede von Kraska teilnehmen zu dürfen wäre ich ggf. längst verschwunden.

"A man has got to to know his limitations", sagte doch mal Clint Eastwood.

Eine Gaststätte offensichtlich ebenfalls.

Den Kommentaren von sla zum Thema Küche stimme ich zu, zumal es für mich nicht der erste Besuch war (aber der letzte).

When you travel down the magical and mystical Wye Valley with its spectacular views, one of the most striking is this amazing sight that appears not far from Chepstow.

Tintern Abbey was founded for Cistercian monks in 1131 by Walter de Clare, Lord of Chepstow, a relative of whom had introduced the first colony of Cistercians to the U.K. in 1128. The present building remains date from the late 13th century. Although buildings were still added after that, this - the richest abbey in Wales - would have begun to decay soon after 1536, by which time king Henry VIII had decided to help himself to the wealth of the religious houses.

It was on September 3, 1536 that Abbot Wyche surrendered Tintern Abbey to the King’s visitors and ended a way of life which had lasted 400 years. The valuable articles from the Abbey were sent to the King’s treasury and Abbot Wyche was pensioned off. The building was granted/returned to the then lord of Chepstow, Henry Somerset, 2nd Earl of Worcester.

Like many abbeys, it soon became roofless as its lead was quickly plundered and the fact that the ruins still stand is testament to the great skills of the medieval designers and craftsmen.

In 1901, the Abbey was bought by the crown from the Duke of Beaufort for £15,000. It was recognised as a monument of national importance and repair and maintenance works began to be carried out. In 1914 the Office of Works were passed responsibility for Tintern, and major structural repairs and partial reconstructions were undertaken.

It really is a highly impressive sight and well worth stopping off to see, or even making a special visit to.